![]() The Series 2 triggers can be full-range analog, millimeter-travel bumpers, or something in between-the latter of which is actually the locked position from the original Elite. The main difference with the Elite Series 2 is these are now three-position locks, not two. As such, sliders on the rear of the Elite allow you to “lock” the triggers and reduce the travel distance. The full analog range of motion is important for racing games and such, but shooters? That only requires a binary on/off. The Elite-and most high-end controllers-allow you to adjust how much pull the triggers need. I got slightly more use out of the Elite’s trigger locks. Alas, I can’t seem to actually make this happen, either because it’s a console-only feature or doesn’t work with the beta Game Bar that Microsoft rolled out a few months ago. Opening the Xbox Accessories app, you’re told you can map commands like “Take a screenshot” onto the Series 2, which I assumed would work through the Windows 10 Game Bar. Unfortunately the PC gets the short end when it comes to the rest of the Series 2’s mapping options. That said, there are a few new commands you can take advantage of in the Xbox Accessories app, namely “Shift.” Using this allows you to add secondary functions to every button on the controller only activate when you’re holding down whatever you’ve mapped as the Shift key. The paddles remain relatively useless on PC. That fell well shy of what I wanted, which was full keyboard-style remapping-for instance, allowing you to map commands that usually required two buttons (because a controller doesn’t have enough inputs) onto a single paddle.Īnd…well, you still can’t do that. Back in 2015 I complained that they weren’t really additional buttons, as all you could do was remap the A/B/X/Y commands to them. The rear paddles make their return, and Microsoft’s slightly enhanced their utility in the ensuing years. More resistance means higher precision, but slightly slower reaction times and more effort to hold the stick over. There isn’t much play to the tension adjustment, but enough to dial in your preference. Insert the included flathead, crank left, and you’ll be back to the floppy sticks. If you want to change that, pry off the stick heads and you’ll see a screwdriver indentation. With the Series 2, the default is more like a standard Xbox One controller, a fairly stiff resistance. Apply the slightest pressure and they’d push right over, a feature I liked but others didn’t. The original Elite had notoriously floppy sticks. A bit odd, that.Īs a consolation prize, you can now adjust stick tension. Sorry, convex fans, but there’s no matching pair in the box. The Series 2 ships with a more motley assortment: Two standard sticks, two “classic” sticks which forgo the grip texture on the edges, one “tall” stick, and a single convex dome. The original shipped with two standard Xbox One sticks, two taller concave sticks, and then two “domed” or convex sticks. The analog sticks are likewise replaceable, though Microsoft’s slightly changed the alternatives provided. Everything is magnetic, so you just pry the faceted D-pad off and replace it with the cross-shaped one in the box. Luckily the Series 2 is just as modular as the original Elite. After a brief stint on the original Elite I swapped for the standard version. A concave circle, the faceted model is meant to facilitate use of the D-pad’s diagonals, but I’ve never gotten used to it. There’s also a cross-shaped D-pad included for those like myself who can’t stand the newfangled design. The faceted D-pad, an iconic symbol of the original Elite, carries over intact-albeit darkened, in keeping with the new color scheme. ![]() Whatever trick of psychology that equates “Heavy” with “Good,” it’s in full effect here. ![]() It has weight to it, a heft that elevates it above the toy-like plastic of a standard Xbox One controller. Regardless, holding the Elite Series 2 is a joy.
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